Every Thursday, after the Kapsali Cave Tour and together with the tour participants, I go for a coffee at the old village café in Kalamos. This kafeneion, owned by the Kalligeros family, is located in the small village square, but it is practically invisible … There is no sign, there are no tables outside and the door doesn’t seem to be open all day long. That explains why many walkers carry on without stopping. And that’s a pity because, when you cross the threshold, you really go back in time. No radio, no television. Along the wall, you will see the huge cupboards where the groceries used to be displayed. A dirty brass weighing scale completes the picture. Do not expect luxury coffees like espressos or freddo cappuccinos. Your frappé will be shaken by hand and the Greek coffee is old-fashioned and strong. When it is time to leave, Mrs. Kalligeros always wishes us a cheery ‘kalo dromo’… have a nice walk.